Rolex and Patek Philippe's card-free distinction

Clock accuracy is very important, the ship clock with the ship, if the error of only one second a day, then according to the cumulative navigation error of two months will reach 27 km. The daily wear of mechanical watches, if the difference of more than 10 seconds, the user has a clear feeling, the error will be cumulative. Because the average person to adjust the watch is changing the size of the month, a month or two down, you can get a very bad. How to make the table go standard? Accurate correction of balance wheel oscillation period, is the most direct and commonly used method. Therefore, the watch fine-tuning device is very important. As the gearbox is the core components of the car, the more advanced gear the more expensive the more expensive. Fine-tuning the time to adjust the watch is to judge the key components of the quality of the watch. The same movement, using different fine-tuning, will be divided into levels. For example, the widely used ETA movement will vary in standard, enhanced, top, Standard and Elaborate (Top, Chronometer) levels depending on the balance spring, balance wheel, suspension, fine tuning used. The same is true of the top movement. The most improved Patek Philippe among the hand-rolled chronographs of the classic 2310 Nouvelle Lemania movement is the fine-tuned gooseneck fine-tuning of the original to PP Home Gyromax cardless balance. First, fine-tuning is doing The watch, which is composed of more than a hundred tiny parts, looks very complicated. The actual principle is very simple. Clockwork is transmitted to the escapement through several sets of gears. We see the pointer indicating the time on the power transmission gear, to correctly display the time you need to control the rotation speed of these gears. Just like controlling water flow, you need a tap. Control equipped with second hand, minute, hour hand rotation speed of the task, it fell on the terminal escapement and balance, hairspring, fine tuning. Turn the faucet to adjust the water flow. So how to adjust the speed of the table when it go, the most important thing is to adjust the balance spring oscillating mechanical oscillator oscillating cycle. The balance wheel and hairspring swings back and forth at high speed with the interaction of the escapement. The maximum angle of swinging balance position is the swing (also called amplitude). How to control the shock period? There are two routines, one is to adjust the actual working length of hairspring, which is the most common means, the use of speed and speed dial needle and needle; the other is to adjust the balance weight, to adjust the shock cycle. Second, with speed needle speed Speed ​​?? needle is the most used watch precision adjustment method, this method is well understood, the length of the balance spring will be shortened to shorten the cycle, the table can go fast, the gossamer long swing cycle will be extended, you can make Table to go slowly. The most typical needle is composed of four parts: 1. eccentric screw to make minor adjustments; 2. trimming the V-shaped part of the chuck part; 3. active stud; 4. hairspring speed clip. The use of speed needle theory is not the best way, it is congenitally deficient, mainly with the speed of the clip to control the work length of hairspring will make hairspring turmoil, stretching and contraction of the deformation intensified, resulting in greater eccentricity Swimming, not the rules of the concentric circumference contraction, and deformation of the largest position is precisely the opposite of the clip in speed, the most important is that it undermines the elastic linearity of the spring, the stability of the shock becomes more erratic, gossamer in the speed clip The swing Marina and the swing Marina gap size, not easy to be controlled to the satisfaction level, which will affect the watch isochronous and poor position, but the watch is not the most important, after adjusting the precise moment, but the long-term stability allowed , In other words, the accuracy can not be maintained for a long time. The structure of the needle and needle during wear, are more susceptible to changes in the clockwork torque, temperature changes, the impact of shock and vibration. Therefore, this is why almost all of the high-precision large watches, heavy weights and double wefts will be an important reason. Using eccentric screw speed needle structure of the table, will not be expensive. Top table probably only Athens, the movement replaced ETA will retain such a body, the price can reach six figures. Seiko Grand Seiko plate face and the pointer has done a very good job, but see the eccentric screw fine-tuning, we can understand why the sale of 20,000 yuan. Third, the needle's high-speed - gooseneck fine-tuning There are also high and low inside the needle, that is, the famous gooseneck fine tuning. The so-called gooseneck, is the hairspring collet parts hit a fixed, to avoid loosening. And this part can produce good aesthetics. Patek Philippe early wristwatch has also been used on the gooseneck fine-tuning Vacheron Constantin's gooseneck fine-tuning, polished so beautiful The gooseneck fine tuning of the Chorard watch hides the point of contact between the stop screw and the speed needle in the T-bar Unlike the simple eccentric screw speed needle fine-tuning, gooseneck fine-tuning the needle, there are many expensive watches. Different forms of speed needle, is beautiful. In addition to goose neck shape, there are similar designs and snail pocket watch fine tuning, the role is similar. Gooseneck has three major functions, it can quickly jam the clip, double gooseneck, but also stuck outside the pile, this will ensure that the vibration, the two do not have displacement, and secondly, it can make fine precision adjustment , To ensure accuracy can be accurately adjusted to a satisfactory and accurate range, and third, and now it is more a decoration and watchmaking heritage, but also the performance of art and watch grades. Fourth, speed needle technical innovation By adjusting the gossamer length control balance wheel oscillation cycle is very simple and effective, through the gooseneck fixed way, but also can be a good solution to the problem of displacement of the gossamer folder. However, because of the speed control of the gossamer clip, it is easy to dislocation in the violent vibration, but not simply the speed of the folder, gossamer piles will be, this thing will cause the misalignment of the watch deflection. In recent years, this area has also been overcome by technological innovations. Using the gooseneck microneedle needle expert, Glashütte, Germany, on August 25, 2009 in Munich, Germany applied for a European patent EP2290477. This patent made a breakthrough improvement to the inherent problem of changing the arc curve of the outer part of the hairspring. A cover is provided for the ends of the hairspring, in which a groove of an arc is opened, and a balance spring is attached to the groove of the arc. The curvature of the arc coincides with the axis of the hairspring. The radius of curvature of the portion of the hairspring to be secured substantially matches the radius of curvature of the other portions of the hairspring to allow for easier and more accurate assembly. Hairspring to maintain the original curvature, will not be damaged due to human assembly, and fixed screws through the wear pad and hairspring contact, fixed firmly. Fifth, high-end and traditional card-free fine-tuning Compared to the speed needle, no caliper structure length of the hairspring is fixed, stability and isochronism is much better. If the hard pick no card shortcomings, there is no card generally with concentric better Breguet balance spring, the overall height of the balance will be higher than 1 mm. The so-called cardless fine-tuning, is to use another technical routines to adjust the balance of the swing, adjust the center of gravity balance. No card on the structure, there are two major systems, one is Rolex Microstella, one is Patek Philippe's Gyromax. 1, pay attention to distinguish between no card and temperature compensation There is a way to put the weights and light pendulum swing, the balance wheel has a lot of screws, we remember that this is not without card, the role of these screws is not to adjust the swing, temperature compensation for adjustment, this balance wheel In the more annual watch or pocket watch to see. The so-called "card-free", in fact, refers to the lack of speed needle, the accuracy is to use the balance above the balance to adjust, these weights have many styles, the role of similar basic weight, these weights are double and the corresponding , Adjustment will make the center of mass balance center of mass or move to achieve the purpose of changing the period of shock, no card is a preconceived call card, in fact, called "weight swing" seems more appropriate. Temperature changes for mechanical watches and quartz watches are a great influence. Quartz watch at 25 degrees Celsius is the most accurate, the temperature rises, it will go slow. Mechanical watch by the temperature changes how much it does, the temperature rises, the metal will be the rigidity of the spring will drop, the length of the work will change, if not for temperature compensation, each rise of 60 degrees Fahrenheit, which is 33 degrees Celsius, the daily travel time error will Increase 312 seconds, which is 6 and a half minutes. The temperature compensation for the balance is also a very interesting knowledge. Someone won the Nobel Prize for solving this problem. 2, Patek Philippe Gyromax began in 1948 without card legend and similar follow Lift up without card The first thought possible is probably the fine tuning of Patek Philippe's iconic Gyromax gold-plated weight. Gyromax trimming is amazing, has been used for more than 60 years and has been used in today's silicon escapement. Rotate the notch in the direction of the center axis of the balance and allow the watch to go slow. The Patek Philippe balance weight (masselotte) number, the most common is 8, there are 4 and 6. PP 324 automatic movement from the factory timing 28-520 movement on the silicon balance wheel is 4 gold trim weight. Do not underestimate these few weights, adjust the range can affect the swing to 180 degrees, the adjustment range is very large. Practical, reliable, beautiful, so still in use. Patek Philippe's Gyromax Cardless Patek Philippe was on a very auspicious day on August 18, 1948, simultaneously applying for two Swiss patents CH280067 and CH261431. CH280067 is mainly about how the horseshoe weight is placed on the balance wheel. The 66-year design is somewhat different from the current product, when a groove was placed on the outer rim of the balance wheel to minimize the air resistance of rotation. And we can now see Chopard Chopard flyer "variner" is very close. This design effect is certainly no problem, but the processing of the wheel out of the provisions of the size of the groove, the processing difficulty is certainly not small, and now the design is set on the inner edge of the balance wheel placed weights, the same effect, processing and manufacturing Difficult to reduce a lot. This is an empirical manifestation of continuous industrial progress. In the development of industrial technology, continuous simplification and easy realization are the direction of continuous efforts. Swiss patent CH261431 mainly describes the specific shape of the horseshoe weight design. Swiss Patent CH280067A Gyromax fine-tuning weight mounted on the balance wheel Swiss Patent CH261431 weight form design AP Audemars Piguet, VC Vacheron Constantin's 889 movement, Philippe Dufour, FPJourne all use similar horseshoe-shaped semicircular gold weights. AP Audemars No card 3, Rolex Microstella began in 1938 without card structure and similar use In fact, the Rolex Microstella cardless structure is earlier than the Gyromax fine tuning of Patek Philippe. A similar design is also a lot. Perhaps because Rolex basic are secret, people can not see the movement, a relatively low-key point. On July 29, 1938 in full swing during the Second World War, Rolex applied for the Swiss patent CHX2239668 and the inventor was Rolex's early partner, AEGLER HANS HERMANN. Rolex is the earliest order from here movement. Who can think of 76 years still continue the use of this technology. The Swiss text of this patent has been lost, and we now see the U.S. patent application filed on September 12, 1938. Rolex follows the 76-year Microstella cardless U.S. patent Rolex is designed to set a screw on the edge of the balance, the top of the screw on a gold nut. Like the design of Patek Philippe, Rolex's earliest embodiment, it is also laborious to open the groove on the edge, and the weight is located at the outer edge of the balance. Today's new, Microstella trim is located on the inner edge of the balance. This processing and implementation of the difficulty is greatly reduced, the same adjustment and reduce wind resistance effect. Patent is valid for 20 years, after the expiration, anyone can use free of charge, Panerai, Omega's card-free design is to follow the routine of Rolex. This article is reproduced, does not represent the world position of million table.